Haskins Heating & Cooling
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P.O.Box 487; Joelton, Tennessee 37080  (615) 746-6390 - 361-0865 - 876-8066 - 384-9506 - 851-6010
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"Serving Cheatham, Davidson, Robertson, Williamson and Rutherford counties since 1986"

"For Quality Professional Service"

Family Owned & Operated Since 1986

5470 Highway 41A Joelton TN, 37080

(615)

 876-8066 ~ 746-6390 ~ 384-9506 ~ 851-6010 ~ 361-0865

 

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Energy Tips Form Haskins Heating & Cooling

 

Heating and Cooling
Cooling your home with air conditioning uses more energy dollars than any other appliance in your home, typically as much as 75% of your electric utility bill goes for cooling your home in the summer.

The number one way you can reduce your energy cost is to replace your system if it is 10 years old or more, with an energy star system. This can reduce your energy cost by as much as 63% on the cooling side and high as 35% reduction on your heating cost, without sacrificing your comfort level. Of all the energy saving procedures you could implement this is by far the most cost effective. Right now the utilities companies are offering an added bonus, by reducing your kilowatt usage you may be eligible for the 20/20 discounted rate on your utility bill. (Contact one of our comfort specialist for a free in home energy survey and estimate on you personal savings.)

In the cooling season, set your thermostat at 78 degrees or higher when you're at home. When you are away from home, set your air conditioner at 85 to 87 degrees or completely off if your not home for more than two days.

Heating accounts for the biggest chunk of winter energy bills. Make sure your furnace receives a professional "tune-up" each year. Clean or replace air filters once a month to help your unit run more efficiently.

Make sure you filter is clean and changed on a regular basis. Have preventive maintenance service twice a year to ensure your unit is running at peak efficiency. Make sure the service person washes out your condenser coil.

Install a programmable thermostat. You can save as much as 10% a year on your heating and cooling bills by simply turning your thermostat back 10% to 15% for 8 hours. You can do this automatically without sacrificing comfort by installing an automatic set back thermostat.

 

Duct Inspection
Have your duct system checked by a qualified person for problems such as leaks and incorrect supply and return to make sure you are not heating or cooling your attic. (Duct repair or duct seal can save as much as 30%.)

Make sure your supply registers are the correct type. Improper registers can make your system run longer and can cost you 5% on your cooling cost.

Make sure your attic is well ventilated. A well-ventilated attic is as important as a well-insulated attic in the summer. Ventilating can lower the temperature in your attic as much as 40%. This can result in you're A/C running as much as 10% to 15% less to maintain the temperature in the home. When your attic gets hot it can stay hot long after it cools down outside. It takes as long for your insulation to cool down as it took to heat it up. This is why you're A/C is working sometimes long after it cools down outside. Insulate ceilings to R-30 standards, if your attic is less than R-19. Save up to 25% of energy used for heating. You can save more if you also insulate walls and duct work.

Shade windows and walls outside home, especially on east and west sides of home. Having drapes and blinds is important, however, any shading you can do from outside is more effective. This will result in you're A/C system running less and save you money.

Plant trees or shrubbery to shade walls, and install awnings outside. Drop shades or sunscreens over windows.

Use ceiling fans to circulate air in home. A constant air movement in home will increase your comfort level and may result in as much as a 2% adjustment in your thermostat setting and can be beneficial summer and winter.

When replacing old windows buy high-performance ones. Look for NFRC label and choose a product with U-factor of .40 or lower and solar heat gain coefficient of .40 or lower and visible light transmittance of .60 or higher.

Caulk around windows, doors, pipes and anywhere else air can leak in and out of the house. Use weather stripping around windows, doors and pipes.
CENTRAL HVAC

picture of central HVAC unit
 

First things first. What does HVAC mean?



 

While the Energy Center usually tries to avoid the use of acronyms, HVAC is in common use in the heating and cooling industry. It stands for "heating, ventilation and air conditioning," three functions often combined into one system in today's modern homes and buildings. Warmed or cooled or dehumidified air flows through a series of tubes - called ducts - to be distributed to all the rooms of your house. A central HVAC system is the most quiet and convenient way to cool an entire home.

Unless you live in an amazingly temperate climate, the HVAC system in your home uses more energy and drains more energy dollars than any other system in your home. Typically, 44 percent of your utility bill goes for heating and cooling.

Like many other appliances, HVAC systems have improved in energy efficiency in the last decade. As a result, you can save money and increase your comfort by properly maintaining and upgrading your HVAC equipment.

Another development of the 1990s is the whole house approach to heating and cooling. Coupled with an energy efficient furnace, heat pump or air-conditioner, the whole house approach can have a great impact on your energy bills. By combining proper equipment maintenance and upgrades with appropriate insulation, weatherization and thermostat settings - properly regulated with a programmable thermostat, of course - you may be able to cut your energy bills in half.

All major appliances including gas furnaces, boilers, air conditioners and heat pumps sold in California meet the Title-24 energy efficiency standards. If you are thinking about purchasing a new central furnace, check the ENERGY STAR® database, which uses information supplied by the California Energy Commission. It displays information on most energy efficient appliances in a consumer-friendly, easy-to-use fashion.

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Central Air Conditioning

Central air conditioning units are usually matched with a gas or oil furnace to provide heat through the same set of ducts.

There are also central HVAC units called heat pumps that combine both the heating and cooling functions. If you heat your home with electricity, a heat pump system is the most efficient unit to use in moderate climates. It can provide up to three times more heating than the equivalent amount of electrical energy it consumes. A heat pump can trim the amount of electricity you use for heating as much as 30 percent to 40 percent.

Even though air conditioners and heat pumps require the use of some different components, they both operate on the same basic principles.

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How They Work

Heat pumps and most central air conditioners are called "split systems" because there is an outdoor unit (called a condenser) and an indoor unit (an evaporator coil). The job of the heat pump or air conditioner is to transport heat from one of these units to the other. In the summer, for example, the system extracts heat from indoor air and transfers it outside, leaving cooled indoor air to be recirculated through your ducts by a fan.

A substance called a refrigerant carries the heat from one area to another. Basically, here's how it works:

The compressor in your outdoor unit will change the gaseous refrigerant into a high temperature, high-pressure gas. As that gas flows through the outdoor coil, it loses heat. That makes the refrigerant condense into a high temperature, high pressure liquid that flows through copper tubing into the evaporator coil located in your fan coil unit or attached to your furnace.

At that point, the liquid refrigerant is allowed to expand, turning the liquid refrigerant into a low temperature, low pressure gas. The gas then absorbs heat from the air circulating in your home's ductwork, leaving it full of cooler air to be distributed throughout the house. Meanwhile, the low temperature, low pressure refrigerant gas returns to the compressor to begin the cycle all over again.

While your air conditioner or heat pump cools the air, it also dehumidifies it. That's because warm air passing over the indoor evaporator coil cannot hold as much moisture as it carried at a higher temperature, before it was cooled. The extra moisture condenses on the outside of the coils and is carried away through a drain. The process is similar to what happens on a hot, humid day, when condensed moisture beads up on the outside of a glass of cold lemonade.

The same process works in reverse in a heat pump during the winter. The heat pump takes heat out of the outside air - or out of the ground, if you have a geothermal heat pump - and it moves that heat inside, where it is transferred from the evaporator coil to the air circulating through your home.

That's not a typographical error, by the way- the heat pump moves heat from outside to warm your home, even on a cold day. That's because "cold" is a relative term. Air as cold as 30 degrees still contains a great deal of heat - the temperature at which air no longer carries any heat is well below -200 degrees Fahrenheit. A heat pump's heat exchanger can squeeze heat out of cold air, then transfer that heat into your home with the help of a fan which circulates the warm air through your ducts.

Heat pumps are often installed with back-up electric resistance heat or a furnace to handle heating requirements when more heat is needed than the heat pump can efficiently extract from the air.

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Types of Systems

We've just described what is called a "split system" - the condensing unit is placed outside the house, and the evaporator coil is inside.

There is another configuration called a "packaged" air conditioner that combines the condensing unit and the evaporator coil into one outdoor unit. Which type you should choose depends on your home's location and construction.

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Rating a Unit's Efficiency

The efficiency of central air conditioning systems is rated by a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). SEER ratings typically range from 13 to 23, with the highest numbers indicating the most efficient units that offer the most energy savings year after year. Fortunately, great strides have been made in the last 10 years to increase the efficiency of new air conditioners and heat pumps.

The typical SEER rating of air conditioners manufactured before 1992 is about 6.0. In 1992, the federal government established the minimum cooling efficiency standard for units installed in new homes at 10. The minimum SEER value changed again on January 23, 2006 to a SEER of 13. To be considered as high-efficiency units, air conditioners must have a SEER rating of at least 14. The SEER rating is usually shown on a yellow and black EnergyGuide sticker attached to the outside unit of the air conditioner.

Central air conditioners that are in the top 25 percent of efficient models may carry the Energy Star® label. To qualify, they must have a minimum SEER efficiency level of 14. Additionally, Energy Star® models must also have a minimum Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) of at least 11.5 for split systems, and of at least 11.0 for single-package models. Air conditioners that bear the Energy Star® label may be twice as efficient as some existing systems.

Heat pumps also have heating efficiency ratings, indicated as a Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF). In general, the higher the HSPF rating, the less electricity the unit will use to do its job.

In 1992, the federal government established the minimum heating efficiency standard for new heat pumps at 6.8 HSPF. (Most heat pumps manufactured before 1992 had HSPF ratings below 5.) The minimum HSPF standard changed again on January 23, 2006 to an HSPF of 7.7. Today, an HSPF of 8.2 or higher is considered "high-efficiency"; the maximum available is 9.35.

High-efficiency central air-conditioning heat pumps can also qualify as Energy Star¨ models. In addition to meeting the minimum SEER and EER requirements, they must also meet minimum HSPF requirements of 8.2 for split systems and 8.0 for single-package models.

Higher efficiency units usually cost more to purchase initially, but save money in the long run on operating costs.

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Sound Levels

Few people think about how loud an air conditioner or heat pump will be - at least until the unit is installed and running in their back yard. With some units, the noise created by the condensing unit outside can even interfere with indoor peace and quiet. That's why you should compare the sound levels produced by different models when you are shopping for a new unit.

The sound level of outdoor units is measured in bels (a term similar to decibels). The rating scale goes from 0 - the rating for a barely perceptible sound - to 13 - the threshold of pain. Most air conditioners and heat pumps operate in the range of 8 to 9 bels, although some are quiet enough to rate as 6.8 bels. (While that may not sound like a wide range, consider this: the noise output at 9 bels is 10 times louder than 8 bels. That means one 9-bel air conditioner is as loud as 10 units rated at 8 bels!)

U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy

Energy Savers

Ducts

One of the most important systems in your home, though it's hidden beneath your feet and over your head, may be wasting a lot of your energy dollars. Your home's duct system, a branching network of tubes in the walls, floors, and ceilings, carries the air from your home's furnace and central air conditioner to each room. Ducts are made of sheet metal, fiber glass, or other materials.

Unfortunately, many duct systems are poorly insulated or not insulated properly. Ducts that leak heated air into unheated spaces can add hundreds of dollars a year to your heating and cooling bills. Insulating ducts that are in unconditioned spaces is usually very cost effective. If you are buying a new duct system, consider one that comes with insulation already installed.

Sealing your ducts to prevent leaks is even more important if the ducts are located in an unconditioned area such as an attic or vented crawl space. If the supply ducts are leaking, heated or cooled air can be forced out unsealed joints and lost. In addition, unconditioned air can be drawn into return ducts through unsealed joints. In the summer, hot attic air can be drawn in, increasing the load on the air conditioner. In the winter, your furnace will have to work longer to keep your house comfortable. Either way, your energy losses cost you money.

Although minor duct repairs are easy to do, ducts in unconditioned spaces should be sealed and insulated by qualified professionals using the appropriate sealing materials. Here are a few simple tips to help with minor duct repairs.

Duct Tips

  • Check your ducts for air leaks. First, look for sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for obvious holes.

     
  • If you use tape to seal your ducts, avoid cloth-backed, rubber adhesive duct tape, which tends to fail quickly. Researchers recommend other products to seal ducts: mastic, butyl tape, foil tape, or other heatapproved tapes. Look for tape with the Underwriters Laboratories logo.

     
  • Remember that insulating ducts in the basement will make the basement colder. If both the ducts and the basement walls are uninsulated, consider insulating both.*

     
  • If your basement has been converted to a living area, hire a professional to install both supply and return registers in the basement rooms.

     
  • Be sure a well-sealed vapor barrier exists on the outside of the insulation on cooling ducts to prevent moisture buildup.

     
  • When doing ductwork, be sure to get professional help. Changes and repairs to a duct system should always be performed by a qualified professional.

     
  • Ducts that don't work properly can create serious, life-threatening carbon monoxide (CO) problems in the home. Install a CO monitor to alert you to harmful CO levels if you have a fuel-burning furnace, stove or other appliance, or an attached garage.

     
  • For new construction, consider placing ducts in conditioned space—space that is heated and cooled—instead of running ducts through unconditioned areas like the crawlspace or attic, which is less efficient.

     
  • $ Long-Term Savings Tip: You can lose up to 60% of your heated air before it reaches the register if your ducts aren't insulated and they travel through unheated spaces such as the attic or crawlspace. Get a qualified professional to help you insulate and repair ducts.

* Note: Water pipes and drains in unconditioned spaces could freeze and burst in the space if the heat ducts are fully insulated, because there would be no heat source to prevent the space from freezing in cold weather. However, using an electric heating tape wrap on the pipes can prevent this.

 

Energy Savers Home | EERE Home | U.S. Department of Energy
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Content Last Updated: 05/30/2006
 

  

 

 

Air Conditioners

It might surprise you to know that buying a bigger room air-conditioning unit won't necessarily make you feel more comfortable during the hot summer months. In fact, a room air conditioner that's too big for the area it is supposed to cool will perform less efficiently and less effectively than a smaller, properly sized unit. This is because room units work better if they run for relatively long periods of time than if they are continually switching off and on. Longer run times allow air conditioners to maintain a more constant room temperature and remove excess humidity.

Sizing is equally important for central air-conditioning systems, which need to be sized by professionals. If you have a central air system in your home, set the fan to shut off at the same time as the cooling unit (compressor). In other words, don't use the system's central fan to provide circulation, but instead use circulating fans in individual rooms.

Cooling Tips

  • Whole-house fans help cool your home by pulling cool air through the house and exhausting warm air through the attic. They are effective when operated at night and when the outside air is cooler than the inside.

     
  • Set your thermostat as high as comfortably possible in the summer. The less difference between the indoor and outdoor temperatures, the lower your overall cooling bill will be.

     
  • Don't set your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner. It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, unnecessary expense.

     
  • Consider using an interior fan in conjunction with your window air conditioner to spread the cooled air more effectively through your home without greatly increasing your power use.

     
  • Don't place lamps or TV sets near your air-conditioning thermostat. The thermostat senses heat from these appliances, which can cause the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.

     
  • Plant trees or shrubs to shade air conditioning units but not to block the airflow. Place your room air conditioner on the north side of the house. A unit operating in the shade uses as much as 10% less electricity than the same one operating in the sun.

     
  • Keep in mind that insulation and sealing air leaks will help your energy performance in the summertime by keeping the cool air inside.

     
  • $ Long-Term Savings Tip: If your air conditioner is old, consider purchasing a new, energy-efficient model. You could save up to 50% on your utility bill for cooling. Look for the ENERGY STAR® and EnergyGuide labels. The shopping guide in the back of this booklet will help you find the right size unit for your needs.

     
  • $ Long-Term Savings Tip: Consider installing a whole house fan or evaporative cooler if appropriate for your climate. Check out the Consumer's Guide for more information on efficient cooling.

     

Natural Gas and Oil Heating Systems

If you plan to buy a new heating system, ask your local utility or state energy office for information about the latest technologies available to consumers. They can advise you about more efficient systems on the market today. For example, many newer models incorporate designs for burners and heat exchangers that result in higher efficiencies during operation and reduce heat loss when the equipment is off. Consider a sealed combustion furnace; they are both safer and more efficient. Check the shopping guide in the back of this booklet for additional information on how to understand heating system ratings.

Install a Carbon Monoxide Detector

Carbon monoxide (CO) detectors are highly recommended in homes with fuel-burning appliances, such as natural gas furnaces, stoves, ovens, and water heaters, and fuelburning space heaters. An alarm signals homeowners if CO reaches potentially dangerous levels.

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